There are at least four versions of how the Reuben sandwich came to be. Arnold Reuben, the proprietor of Reuben's Restaurant in New York, claimed to have created it in 1914 for actress Annette Seelos when she came in looking for something heartier than his menu offerings. Reuben Kulakofsky, a wholesale grocer in Omaha, Neb., said he invented it in 1922 with his poker buddies, one of whom later put it on the menu of his restaurant.Still another, Jacob Reuben, a butcher and deli owner in New York, took credit. And then there's William Hamerly, a New York accountant, who professed to have come up with the combo and named it for Arnold Reuben, whom he admired for his generous gifts to charities. The controversy may never be resolved, but there's virtually no argument about the traditional ingredients. A Reuben is made with Russian dressing, corn beef, Swiss cheese, and sauerkraut. Any substitutions and it's simply not a Reuben.